How to Winterize Your Outdoor Fire Table

An outdoor fire table is a significant investment. A quality GFRC or concrete fire table can last decades — but only if you protect it properly when temperatures drop. Winterizing takes less than an hour and can prevent thousands of dollars in damage from moisture, freeze-thaw cycles, and neglect.

This guide walks you through everything: shutting off the gas, covering the burner, draining the lines, and storing components safely. Whether you own a round fire table, a linear model, or a built-in unit, the process is largely the same.

Why Winterizing Matters

GFRC (glass fiber reinforced concrete) is dense and weather-resistant, but it is not impervious to water. When moisture penetrates a surface crack and then freezes, it expands — widening the crack and weakening the structure over time. After several seasons of freeze-thaw cycling, small surface blemishes can become significant structural damage.

Beyond the concrete itself, the burner assembly, gas valves, and ignition system are all vulnerable. Water inside a burner pan corrodes the ports, clogs the orifice, and causes uneven flame patterns. A corroded igniter means a cold fire table when you most want a flame come spring.

The good news: winterizing is straightforward. You don't need special tools or professional help. You just need to follow the steps in order.

Step 1: Turn Off the Gas Supply

Before touching anything else, shut off the gas at the source. For propane fire tables, close the valve on the propane tank completely — turn it clockwise until it stops. For natural gas fire tables, locate the dedicated shutoff valve on the gas line feeding the table and turn it to the off position (perpendicular to the pipe).

After shutting off the supply, open the control valve on the fire table and hold the igniter. This bleeds any residual gas from the line and confirms the supply is truly off. If the burner briefly flames and then goes out — that's normal and expected. If it burns continuously, the shutoff valve hasn't fully closed.

Leave the control valve in the off position before you close everything up. You don't want the valve left open all winter, which can allow moisture to enter the valve body.

Step 2: Disconnect and Store the Propane Tank (If Applicable)

Propane tanks should not sit connected to a fire table all winter, especially in climates where temperatures regularly drop below freezing. Disconnect the regulator hose from the tank, cap the tank valve, and store the tank upright in a cool, dry, well-ventilated location — ideally outdoors in a shaded area away from heat sources.

Do not store propane tanks in a garage attached to your home, in a basement, or in any enclosed space. Even small propane leaks in an enclosed area create a serious fire hazard.

If you have a natural gas fire table, skip this step — there's nothing to disconnect.

Step 3: Remove the Fire Glass or Lava Rock

This step surprises many fire table owners, but it makes a real difference. Fire glass is glass — and glass holds moisture. A pan full of wet fire glass sitting through a cold winter is an invitation for corrosion, mold, and mineral deposits that dull the glass's reflective surface.

Remove the fire glass or lava rock, rinse it thoroughly with fresh water, spread it out to dry completely (at least 24–48 hours in direct sunlight is ideal), then store it in a sealed container or bucket with a lid. A 5-gallon bucket works perfectly for most residential fire tables.

This also gives you a chance to inspect the glass for any pieces that have turned cloudy or discolored. If the glass has lost its shine, this is the time to order a top-up bag before the next season.

Step 4: Remove and Clean the Burner Pan

With the fire glass out of the way, you can access the burner pan. Most fire tables have a pan that lifts out — check your owner's manual, as some models use screws or clips. Remove the pan and inspect it thoroughly.

Look for:

• Rust spots — surface rust can be treated with a wire brush and rust-inhibiting primer; deep rust means the pan needs replacing
• Clogged burner ports — use a fine wire or a can of compressed air to clear any debris from the ports
• Accumulated debris — leaves, insects, and dirt collect at the bottom of the pan; wipe it clean with a dry cloth
• Corroded igniter electrodes — clean with fine steel wool if lightly corroded; replace if heavily corroded

Once cleaned and dried, store the burner pan indoors if possible. If indoor storage isn't practical, place it in a heavy-duty garbage bag, seal it tightly, and keep it inside the fire table's cabinet.

Step 5: Inspect and Clean the Concrete or GFRC Body

Now that the fire media and pan are removed, inspect the concrete body carefully. Run your hand along all surfaces — top, sides, and any decorative edges. You're looking for cracks, chips, or areas where the surface feels soft or crumbly.

Minor surface hairline cracks in GFRC are common and cosmetic — they don't compromise structural integrity. Larger cracks (wider than a hairline) should be filled before winter using a concrete crack filler rated for outdoor use. Follow the product directions and allow it to cure fully before covering the table.

Clean the exterior with a mild soap and warm water. Avoid pressure washing directly into any cracks, as this forces water deeper into the concrete. Rinse thoroughly and allow the surface to dry completely — at least 24 hours — before applying any sealant or cover.

Should you seal the concrete? A penetrating concrete sealer applied every one to two years provides excellent protection against moisture intrusion. Apply it in fall before temperatures drop, following the manufacturer's instructions. This is especially important in climates with harsh freeze-thaw cycles.

Step 6: Drain Any Water Features

Some high-end fire tables include integrated water features — small channels or reservoirs that create a visual water-and-fire effect. These must be drained completely before winter. Even small amounts of standing water will freeze, expand, and crack the reservoir walls or channels.

If your table has a water feature, follow the manufacturer's specific draining procedure. Most involve unplugging the pump, removing it for indoor storage, and using a wet/dry vacuum to pull residual water from the channels.

Step 7: Cover the Fire Table Properly

A quality cover is the single most important protective measure you can take. Not all covers are equal — a cheap polyester cover will hold moisture against the concrete surface, which is almost as bad as leaving the table uncovered.

Look for a cover that meets these criteria:

• Waterproof outer shell — typically 600D polyester with a PVC or PE coating
• Breathable interior lining — allows moisture vapour to escape rather than trapping condensation against the surface
• Secure fit — drawcords, buckles, or velcro straps that keep the cover from blowing off in wind
• UV-stabilized material — covers left outdoors all winter are exposed to significant UV even in cold climates

If the fire table is in an exposed location — on a deck or patio without overhead cover — consider moving it to a covered area for the winter if it's on casters and can be moved safely. Even a porch or covered pergola offers significantly better protection than full exposure.

What About Leaving the Fire Table Out Year-Round?

Many manufacturers build their fire tables for year-round outdoor use, and GFRC in particular is designed to withstand the elements. But "designed to withstand" is not the same as "unaffected by." Every winter season without proper care adds cumulative wear to the materials.

If you choose to leave your fire table out without winterizing, at minimum: keep it covered, remove the fire glass, and shut off the gas supply at the source. That baseline of protection will prevent the most common forms of winter damage.

For detailed care guidance through all four seasons, see our complete guide to gas fire table maintenance.

Spring Start-Up Checklist

When warmer weather returns, run through this checklist before your first fire of the season:

• Inspect all gas connections for leaks using soapy water — bubbles indicate a leak
• Check the burner for debris (wasps and insects love to nest in burner ports over winter)
• Test the igniter before reinstalling fire media
• Reinstall the cleaned fire glass or order fresh media if needed
• Reconnect the propane tank (if applicable) and check the regulator hose for cracks
• Inspect the concrete body for any new cracks that developed over winter

A quick 15-minute start-up inspection each spring will catch any issues before they become problems — and get you back to enjoying your outdoor fire table as soon as the weather allows.

Summary

Winterizing a gas fire table takes less than an hour and protects a significant investment. Shut off the gas, disconnect propane if applicable, remove and store the fire glass, clean and inspect the burner pan, seal any cracks in the concrete, and cover the table with a breathable, waterproof cover. Do this every fall and your fire table will perform like new season after season.

Thinking about adding a fire feature to your outdoor space? Browse our full collection of GFRC fire tables and outdoor fire pits to find the right fit for your patio.